Monday, April 2, 2007

Africa pics: Safari, the bush, Mt. Elgon

Safari: Maasi Mara Nature Preserve, Kenya







Please don't eat me! I was less than 5 feet from this guy. There was also another male, and 2 females less than 20 feet away.














A female lion feeling pretty hot in the sun...
















...so it decided to relax in the shade made by our car.

















Can you see the baby elephant between the mother's legs?

















There were TONS of animals. Here you see Gazelles, Topi, and Impalas.












Helllllllo Gazelle.














Cheeeetah. We saw 3 of them hunting gazelles. I didnt see them run at full speed, but they did take a few incredibly graceful strides (they went 10 feet per stride!).













Awwwwww.



















Monkeys are incredibly curious. This little guy (the baby from above) wrestled himself away from his mom to come check me out (I was about 2 feet away and had to back up to take this picture).
















Maasi warrior. Notice the ears.




















The mighty Mitsubishi.










Hangin out in the African bush: Bukedia district, Uganda








The most friendly woman I've ever seen wielding a giant meat cleaver. (Goat roast in the village...mmmmmm)















Beautiful sunset over the African bush. The African sky is simply amazing.









The peeing perpetrator.





















Hunting. Obviously.
















Yes, that is a family of 5 on a single bicycle.









Climbing Mt. Elgon, Uganda








Our guide (with his rifle) in front of Mt. Elgon, the tallest mountain in Uganda. You can see the clouds we hiked into.
















I told you Africans carry everything on their heads (also notice that he is not wearing any shoes to climb a mountain)


















Changing scenery...the bamboo forest.

















Muzungus in the mist.





















A view from above the clouds on the way to Mt. Elgon's peak.









Patrick and I at the peak.

Greetings from Kenya

Hey all-

Greetings from Kenya! I hope this message finds you all well. I just finished a ridiculous safari in the Maasi Mara Nature Preserve, and I’m now visiting one of Kiva’s partners in Central Kenya. Sorry its been a while since I’ve written – I’ve been super busy with WITEP, the organization I’m volunteering with, and have been doing some awesome things on the weekends.

First of all, I’m still in Africa – so I never made it to Brazil. Bummer. I was really looking forward to the beautiful Brazilians and beautiful beaches, um, I mean the rewarding volunteering I would have been able to do there. But, there was way too much work left in Uganda for me to leave, and this is a way higher priority for Kiva, so I was happy to stay - I’ll be here till the end of May, when I head straight to SF for Katie Taylor’s wedding in Napa, then back to Chicago by early June. Plus, there was a ton I didn’t have a chance to do by the time that I would have had to leave, so now I can see the sights with a bit more time, instead of trying to squeeze in everything in a very shelbyesque manner.

So, we’ve made a lot of progress at WITEP since I wrote last. My role there transitioned from being mainly in the field to focusing more on operations and working mostly from the office. This is definitely where I needed to be, but I for sure miss being in the field every day meeting clients, hearing how microfinance has impacted their lives, and enjoying the beautiful African sunshine. My recent work at WITEP has been helping to give them a strategy that will make them self-sustaining, which will allow them to serve poor people for many years to come. I’ve also been really focusing on helping them improve their repayment rates, and collect the money that they owe to Kiva lenders.

People have been telling me they want to loan to someone that I know, but WITEP is not posting any more loans on the Kiva site (www.kiva.org) until they improve their repayments a bit. I can tell you with certainty, however, that anyone on the Kiva site from East Africa (Uganda, Kenya, and Tanzania) will benefit greatly from your loan. The poverty here still blows my mind, but these loans really do make a huge difference.

Its also been a busy couple of weeks for Kiva. We were featured in a great article that showed up on the front page of the New York Times website, and was subsequently the 3rd most emailed article of the day. This was probably Kiva’s biggest press exposure to date, and we were flooded with visitors afterwards. The day after the article our loan volume was 10X normal, and we crossed the $4M mark for total loans. To put that in perspective, it took Kiva 10 months to raise our first million, and we raised this last million in under 2 months!

So aside from WITEP and Kiva, I’ve also been keeping myself quite busy. The highlight so far was the safari I went on last weekend in Kenya. Unbelievable. I was visiting a friend in Kenya, and had nothing to do for the weekend. Since I coulnd’t miss work, I was only at the reserve for a little over 24 hours, but it was totally worth it. He let me borrow his car (a 1990-something Mitsubishi sedan), and we made the 5 hr trip the Maasi Mara Nature Preserve. I was only planning on using the car to get to the park and paying for professional tours ($70 bucks a pop for 2 hrs!), but when we got there we found out that since it hadn’t been raining (the roads weren’t muddy) we’d be fine in the Mitsubishi – the roads leading to the part were actually worse than the roads in the park. Everyone else is in these intense Land Rovers, and we plug along in our tiny sedan, carefully navigating the giant holes in road and the mini rivers. I think people were staring at us as much as they were at the wildlife. And the wildlife was AMAZING. What was so remarkable was the sheer volume of animals. We saw literally thousands of animals in their natural habitat. We saw hundreds of Zebras, gazelles, and impalas, about 50 elephants (including a few babies), 10 lions (4 males, 5 females, and 1 cub), 2 giraffes, tons of hippos, 6 cheetah, and tons of monkeys. They are really used to humans, and come right up to you, The lions are super lazy during the day, and just want a place to lay in the shade. One time, we drove up to a lion, and it walked right in front of our car and laid down in our shade! My faves were the monkeys, because they let me sit in the middle of a group of them, and they would play all around me. One of the babies was super curious what I was, and kept trying to get away from its mom to check me out. Seeing the male lions was also incredible, and watching a huge herd of Elephants was probably my third favorite thing. We camped just outside the park in an area that was heavily populated by monkeys and baboons. I had no idea how smart and crafty the are, but during the day the monkeys unzipped a campers tent, got into her stuff, opened her pill box and took her blood pressure medicine! Also, when we were stopped, monkeys climbed into an open jeep and stole box lunches. In July there is a massive wildebeest and zebra migration (1.3 million animals!!!) when they move from the Serengeti in Tanzania to the Maasi Mara in Kenya in search of food. Apparently you can hardly even see the bushes there’s so many animals, and tons of lions and cheetah come out to feed on the abundance of animals. Coming back for this has definitely been added to the life ‘to do’ list, and you all should add it to yours too!

Another incredible experience was climbing Mt. Elgon, Uganda’s tallest mountain at about 14,300 ft, with a buddy named Patrick that I met in Mbale (fellow microfinance volunteer, just graduated from Notre Dame and doing everything he can to avoid getting a job). It was a 3 day hike, with almost a 10,000 ft vertical climb. While summiting the peak was clearly beautiful, the most remarkable part of the hike was the super steep parts through the jungle at the beginning and the end. We were deep in the jungle, and since the terrain was so steep, the surroundings would rapidly change with the altitude. Another crazy thing was that we were actually in the clouds while we were hiking up through the jungle. With the exception of taste, all of my senses were completely overwhelmed. Visually, the scenery was constantly changing – from deep jungle, to bamboo forest, to huge moss covered trees. We also came across a point where we were absolutely surrounded by 2 types of monkeys. You could feel the moisture of the clouds stick to your skin, vines would randomly rub over your body, and you’d get bit by a mysterious insect from time to time. The sounds were incredible – birds, insects, monkeys, frogs, sounds that you really didn’t want to know what they were – and they were incredibly loud. You’d only quit hearing one sound when it was replaced by another sound – they’d kinda fade into eachother as you walked. The most remarkable thing, though, was the smells. Its hard for me to put my finger on exactly what the smells were, but like the sounds, you could always smell something, and you only quit smelling it when it was replaced by something else. And one of these senses was always changing. It almost felt as though I was imaging my surroundings, or it was a dream, and my mind was playing tricks on me by changing my surrounding so quickly. And, since we were in the clouds, you couldn’t see more than 100 meters in any direction, and the mistiness made it seem even more eerie. Overall, an incredible experience. Next up within the month: Mt. Kilimanjaro in Tanzania – the roof of Africa at 19,400 ft.

Uganda is home to Lake Victoria, Africa’s largest lake, which the source of the Nile and is about 2 hrs from Mbale. The start of the huge river provides some of the most ridiculous white water rafting on the planet – 5 sets of class 5 rapids, which are the toughest you can possibly raft. Also, it’s the contours of the river bed which cause the rapids, while most class 5 rapids are formed by huge rocks, which makes the rafting really unsafe. Making it through the entire course without flippling your raft several times is completely impossible. The crazy thing was when your raft gets flipped at the beginning of a rapid, you just float down the rapid with nothing but a life jacket and a helmet. There were definitely times when I was underwater for at least 20 seconds, but I’d always make it back to the surface eventually. When I have a few free weekends I think I’m going to go back and learn to Kayak. Obviously I won’t venture to the class 5s, but it should still be a great way to spend some time.

The last really cool thing I did was I spent a weekend in bush at my roommate’s village. It was great to have a chance to experience how people live in super rural areas. As a guest, they want you to just sit and relax, but I did my best to pitch in with the work – cooking over a fire, grinding gound nuts (peanuts, essentially), and gathering water - although, I’m pretty damn bad at balancing things on my head (it is not a stereotype that Africans carry tons of stuff on their heads – they really do carry everything, from water, to bowls of bananas, to 10 foot long pieces of sugar cane, on their heads). I did not lend a hand, however, when they slaughtered a goat for a huge feast. It was pretty gruesome, but mighty tasty! We also did some great hiking, and went hunting, which consisted of carrying big sticks and looking for animals – not surprisingly we came up empty. Apparently, if we saw an antelope, we would try to surround it, and sneak up on it with our big sticks. I wasn’t really sure how we could possibly catch an antelope, but my roommates were pretty adamant that it works. Also, the villages are very communal – neighbors always stop in, just to pass the time or to help with chores or cooking. A few of them brought their babies (I’ve already discussed how cute African babies are). I found out the hard way that most babies don’t wear diapers when a cute baby boy peed all over me! I didn’t hold any more babies after that. We slept in grass huts, which were surprisingly warm, and waterproof (it rained really hard).

I hope you’re all doing well in the states. Shoot me back a few lines if you have a minute – would love to hear whats new. I don’t get much news down here, so keep me posted on whats goin on up there. I’ll definitely write again sooner than I did last time so I don’t barrage you with such a long email.

Best-

Shelby

Wednesday, February 7, 2007

Pics


A bilboard I saw the day I took 5 months off to work with Kiva. Yes. I am in!


WITEP's loan officers - Alex (L) and Robbins (R). Robbins is a roomate. We're hiking Wanale mountain about a half hour outside of Mbale.


At Sipi Falls (about an hour from Mbale) with a few friends.


This one is for mom. The kids here are so damn cute. (Sipi Falls)


Hiking with both roomates, Ali and Robbins, at Wanale.






The chaos that is Kampala (Capital of Uganda)






Roomate Ali in a waterfall, hiking near town






First time grocery shopping (notice chicken), standing at our house in front of our porch, where we spend 99% of our time.






Moses, the guy with HIV I wrote about, in his villages with some of his children.

























A loan applicant in his village with SOME of his children.





























A loan applicant (tailor) in his village.

























This is how he gets his antique (at least 50 pound) sewing machine to markets up over 15 km away.






























A single mother and and some of her children in front of a house the extension that will triple the size of their house. (Currently ~300 square feet for 8 people)












Janet (the head of WITEP) with a chicken we were given. (All I heard when we were given the chicken was "my, my! what a big cock!)

A day in Mbale

Hey All-

How’s things in the states? Hope this email finds everyone well.

I was talking to my sister last week, and she wanted to know what I do in a typical day here. Last Friday kinda summed up what its been like to be here so far, so I thought I’d just describe what happened.

Before I dive in, I wanted to tell you a few quick things. A few of you have told me that you’d like to make a loan with Kiva, but want to loan to someone I personally know. The organization Im working at (WITEP) is currently going through a routine financial audit, so we’re not currently posting any businesses, so I won’t currently know anyone personally. Its looking like we may post a few business in the near future, and I’ll let you all know if there are a few clients who I feel could really use the loan. In the mean time, please let me know if you loan to someone in East Africa (Uganda, Kenya, Tanzania). I won’t know the person yet, but will try to meet them if I visit their MFI.

So…Last Friday I woke up at about 7:30 from the sound of a rooster crowing. The rooster had wandered into our yard, as many animals do – there’s probably 2-8 random animals in our yard at any given time. Often they come to feed on the giant pile of trash that we, like everyone else here, have in our yard. There’s no trash service, so every few weeks you gather everything together and burn it. Nothing like the smell of burning garbage! We usually like the animals that wander by (typically chickens, sometimes goats, and even a cat once), but we always scare off the dogs because they can sometimes have rabies. My roommate Robbins, a loan officer for WITEP, summed it up best by saying “I love dogs but hate rabies. Its kinda like sex,” of course referring to the rampant AIDS problem here. The roosters are kinda like a natural snooze button – in a few minutes they’ll go off again, so I snoozed for a few minutes, then woke up to check on Robbins, who has malaria (He’s doing fine, and is almost better by now. I’m taking pills so I wont get it, but its pretty scary to think that any day they can get a potentially life threatening disease). The power and water were out, but I was able to get a half bucket of water for a bath (I’m starting to get good at this! Last week’s Pantene Pro V incident was definitely amateur hour).

After a quick breakfast of coffee, locally grown eggs, and fresh Mango, I took off for the office by taking a bicycle taxi (called a boda boda), which costs about $0.15 for a 3km ride. Kinda surprising to me is that most Africans are actually pretty small. Often I’ll see a kid and think he’s 7 or 8, and find out he’s 14 – surely due to poor nutrition. So, when its me and one of my much lighter African friends grabbing a boda together, they usually pray that I’m not the one that gets on their bike. I always feel so bad, so whenever we get to a hill I jump off and walk up it, and I usually leave them with a pretty nice tip. I got to the office, where there was power, and did a bit of stuff on the internet, which takes forever. I bought my mom flowers for her birthday (HAPPY BIRTHDY MOM!) which took over an hour on the site given the internet connection (Could I be a better son? Not likely.) Then I worked for a while on designing WITEP the Microfinance institution where I’m working) a computer based loan management system using Microsoft Access (Currently, all records are written out, despite having a nice computer).

We then left for the village to meet some potential clients, and tell them out WITEP. Remember, Moses, the guy with HIV from the last email? Well, he’s the chairman of a group in his village, Katchumbala, called Katchumbala Positively Living Members Association, which is kinda a support group for people living with HIV. Although he HIV rate is quite high in Africa, there is still a terrible stigma against having it, and many people will even forgo treatment to avoid embarrassment, so groups like this are great. Anyway, we told Moses that we’d love to help people in a similar situation to his, so made plans to him and 4 people from his organization to tell them about WITEP. Instead of 4 people, 72 people showed up at the meeting, almost all of them HIV positive and in serious need of some help to treat themselves, and sustain their families. There were a few stories that just broke my heart. A woman, was asking for a $50 loan for her baking business that she started a year earlier with $2.50 that someone had given to her. She was a single mother to 5 children (lost her husband to AIDS 4 years ago), had AIDS herself, and was struggling to feed her children, pay their school fees, and pay for her transport to get treatment. The stories go on and on. While I was taking loan applications, I was stung by a Wasp. Twice.

After we finally got through taking all 72 loan applications, we went close by to Janet’s (head of WITEP) village, where 3 of her 6, yes 6, mothers live (whoa polygamy). About 10 people live in a small area in the bush in 5 grass huts. They were busy making bread from scratch. And making bread from scratch definitely means something different in an African village than it does in the US. They took millet (a grain) grown nearby, smash it to break it up, go through the broken up pieces to one by one pick out tiny seeds, sift the seeds to remove impurities and rocks, then make it into a dough and bake the bread. They fed us lunch, which was actually pretty good, but it was a bit strange because it was the first time that I had eaten with my hands (no utensils). Its definitely a bit tricky to eat rice covered in sauce with your hands, well, maybe just more messy than tricky.

We came back to Mbale, the town where I live, and I headed home, where the power was still out. I had a bit of work to do, so I did it in my room with the light from a lantern. After, we had to go get water about 1km away, then made dinner on a charcoal stove. Before we went out (it was a Friday after all), a few of my roommates friends came over, one of them drives a bus between two small towns here. Clearly I ended up driving the bus to the bars in town (there are a few here). We started off playing pool (I cleaned up!), then went to the one dance club in town (think bad 80-90s pop mixed with Luganda, which is like reggae in a tribal language) until 3am, when we finally went home. As if I don’t feel like I stick out as a Mizungu enough, I have to dance with Africans all night (all really good dancers), and my pasty whiteness and uncoordinated flailing dancing are quite accentuated.

Well, hopefully that describes a bit better what life is like here. Its definitely different, but a great change, and I’m still really enjoying it!

Best-

Shelby

Wednesday, January 31, 2007

Safe and sound in Uganda...

…yep, that definitely still sounds weird, but I am having a really great experience so far and am really glad to be here (although I dearly miss you all, tear). I hope you all are doing well! I will do my best to keep this blog updated, but electricity here is spotty and internet is even worse, so we'll see how it goes.

Sorry, this post is a little long. I'll try to keep them shorter in the future, but I've got a lot to say! If nothing else, try to read the next 2 paragraphs because I'd really like you to know what I'm up to here. For those of you who aren't exactly sure what I'm doing, Im working for the next 5 months with a microfinance organization called Kiva.org. I'll be spending the next 2 months in Uganda, followed by 2 months in Brazil. Microfinance gives very small loans (called microloans, which can be as small as $25 and are usually less than $1200) to entrepreneurs in very poor countries. These small loans give people the means to create a small business to support themselves and their families. If you've heard the age old proverb "If you give a man a fish you can feed him for a day, but teach a man to fish and you can feed him for a lifetime", microfinance is the next step in the proverb – I know how to fish, but I need some credit to buy a boat and a net! Microfinance in general been doing great things for help poverty in the poorest countries around the world. In fact, Mohammed Yunus won this year's Nobel Peace Price for microfinance work he's done over the past 3 decades in Bangladesh.

Kiva, where I'm volunteering, is young grassroots operation that is best described as ebay meeting microfinance. I strongly encourage you all to check out the website if you haven't yet. The site contains the profiles of many borrowers around the world who are in need of funds for a loan, and visitors to the website can fund portions of a microloan. For example, there might be a profile of Mary in Uganda who needs to borrow $300 to purchase goats for livestock. You'd see a picture of Mary and her goats, and there would be a short descriptionof her business and her need. If you decide to loan to Mary, you send her money (as little as $25) using a PayPal account. At the end of the loan (terms are explained in the profile), you'll likely get your money back, although it is not guaranteed in case she defaults (although Kiva still has a 100% repayment rate). Ive seen first hand the incredible benefit these small loans can give to people who are the poorest of the poor, and I can't describe how strongly I feel about the impact they make. I hope you'll at least take a look at the website and consider loaning to someone who really needs the money. Also, let me know if you loan to someone in Uganda, Kenya, or Tanzania. I will be visiting a number of partner organizations in those countries, and if you loan to someone there I will do my best to visit the borrower and give you a first hand description of the impact your loan has made on the borrower's life.

So Ive been working in the field at WITEP for a few days now, and I can't begin to describe to you all what an incredible experience its been so far. Its truly amazing to meet the people who are receiving theseloans and to see what effect they're having on their lives. Last week I sat with a woman who was on the verge of tears because getting this loan was her only hope of sending one of her 6 kids to school. Also, I met a guy, and when I went to shake his hand he gave me a hug instead. This guy is HIV positive, and I strongly believe that without his loan he would have died by now. When he first got the loan last June, he was incredibly sick (started at ~130 lbs before getting sick, and dropped to 80 lbs !!!!!! after getting sick), and could barely walk. All of his money went to his medication, transport to health care, and feeding his 9 children (8 of his own and an orphan of his brother's, who died of AIDS). Once he got the loan he was able to spend some money on goods to sell (supplies for an Ox plow), and now has enough income to take care of his illness, eat properly, support his kids, and even send some of them to school. He's since regained weight and weighs about 115 lbs, and can now walk with the help of a cane. He attributes most of the improvements in his life to his microloan. To show his gratitude he absolutely insisted on giving me a live chicken, and was visibly upset when I tried to politely refuse his gift. Apparently this is a common practice and I'm bound to be offered a goat as well. I've met a lot of other people without stories that aren't so dramatic, but its still incredible to see the impact these loans have on their lives, and that of their families. I can't describe to you how incredible it feels to have someone look you in the eye and say "Thank you. You have changed my life." To say the least, its incredibly emotional.

As far as living in Africa, there have definitely been a lot of things to get used to. For example, sometimes the running water isn't working, so you have to bathe with cold water in a bucket. That's fine, I can deal with that, but I had never really considered how difficult it is to bathe out of a single bucket – it would have really been helpful to go in there with a game plan. A few lessons learned in case you ever find yourself in the same position – 1) check the room thoroughly for mosquitoes (no explanation necessary). 2) Don't use Pantene Pro V Shampoo + Conditioner in 1. It is impossible to get the damn conditioner out, so I finished my bucket and was still covered head to toe in a slimy layer of conditioner, and remained that way until we went hiking in the mountains near town and swimming in the waterfalls. Another thing to get used to is that the decision to get chicken for dinner at the market involves brining home a live chicken (given to us just like any other groceries in a plastic bag, with a hole cut in the bag for its head to stick out). What really blew me away was that the chicken was a hen, and it had about 20 eggs at different stages of development inside, including one that was about to be laid and looked exactly like one you'd buy at the store. It was like a crazy science experiment…that I was later supposed to eat. I seriously struggled eating that night, but felt too bad to wasting food so I had to force down one small piece. Needless to say I don't think I'll be suggesting chicken for dinner any time soon, and just may come back a vegetarian. One thing Im not sure if I'll ever get used to is the bugs. I suspiciously peer into a room before entering just in case there's something huge and crawly waiting for me.

I'm currently living in a small town (~70K residents) in western Uganda called Mbale, and working with a microfinance institution (MFI) called WITEP (Women's Initiative to Eradicate Poverty). Immediately when arriving you can see the poverty and Chaos that is Eastern Africa. There are people EVERYWHERE, and all along the terrible streets (one lane roads connecting major towns with more potholes than you can imagine) you can see the shacks most people live in (made of clay bricks and a thatch or metal roof). Who knew, but Uganda is a polygamist country, and its not uncommon to have a family with more than 20 kids with 2-4 wives (both of the guys Im living is one of more than 20 kids). Where I'm living in about 4 hours from the Capital, Kampala, so I stayed in a hotel the first night I arrived. It really set in that I had arrived in Africa on my first night when the power went out (its probably off about 50% of the time), I had to stumble to my tiny, windowless, cement room and crawl under my mosquito net. Thank god I have that net – it has quickly became my most prized possession, but every morning when I wake up I say a little prayer before opening my eyes that some gigantic spider wont be staring down at me from the other side of the net.

My living situation is actually pretty fun, and was a very nice surprise. At first I was going to live with the woman who runs theMFI, but decided that 2 months was a long time to be a house guest, soI decided to rent a place. I costs $250 a month, and I figured it would be a small place and I'd be living alone. Secretly, it is a huge 4 bedroom house in a gated compound and has a nice front and back yard, and I live there with the woman who runs the MFI's brother, and another loan officer, both of whom are 24. While it is very nice byUgandan standards, many of you would still cringe by seeing it – a hole in the ground for a toilet, cement floors, etc. In any case, it was definitely a nice surprise and think it will be a blast to have two young guys to live with.

Most people here speak English, but they speak completely differently. They speak very slowly which is tough for me because I really like to speak incredibly fast and usually mumble. So even though they speak English, we often don't understand each other – It feels like it did when I was first speaking Spanish with native speakers. Whats kinda weird is that they use almost no slang, so they love it when I throw out some Americanisms. I'm also trying to pick up a bit of Luganda (haha, no Ashley it isn't the click click language), which is the most common native language to speak. The one word I've definitely picked up so far is "Mizungu!",which means "white guy", that all the little kids yell as I walk past. Black babies, by the way, are indisputably the cutest beings on the planet. Overall, I've been pleasantly surprised by how friendly people are here, and Ive felt incredibly safe so far. Everyone has been very welcoming, and it seems that they really like while people (who are usually here to help in some way).

For all of you still reading, I hope I didn't bore you too much. Ihope you all are well, and please keep in touch!

Best-

Shelby